Cocos Islands

Stick a pin in a globe through the Cocos (Keeling) Islaands, and it emerges almost exactly through the Cocos in Costa Rica. Discovered in 1609, they were settled and owned by a single family from 1827 until the Australian Government acquired them in 1978.

Lying 2,770 km (1,732 mi) northwest of Perth, the 27 coral islands are formed into two large, heavily vegetated atolls. Not only are they the only atolls that Darwin ever visited, but the coral ecosystem remains intact - and you can still see in their pristine condition exactly why they played such an important part in his theory of evolution.

North Keeling, set apart from the other islands, isn't even inhabited, but you can see extreme rarities like the Cocos buff-banded rail, robber land crabs, and both green and hawksbill turtles among other wonders, under its protection as Pulu Keeling National Park, covering both North Keeling and its surrounding waters.

The Cocos (Keeling) islanders live on Home and West Islands, both given over to copra and coconut plantations that only add to their tropical glamour. There is no tourist industry at all. Instead, there are facilities for visitors, sponsored by islanders who take an almost personal interest in everyone who comes. If you happen to be there, you're genuinely welcome to participate in the school fete, sports day, or concert night, and you'd be an idiot not to join in quiz night at the Cocos Club, or not to watch the annual Ardmona Cup Aussie Rules football match.

The tradition of hospitality is both Australian and Malay, representing the origins of the tight-knit community. The islanders, as much as the islands themselves, have retained a form of unpolluted innocence, and share a mutual respect that visitors immediately respond to. These islands are a dreamscape worthy of Gauguin.

The Cocos (Keeling) Islands consist of two flat, low-lying coral atolls with an area of 14.2 km² (5.4 sq. mi), 2.6 km (1.6 mi) of coastline, a highest elevation of 5 m (16 ft) and thickly covered with coconut palms and other vegetation. The climate is pleasant, moderated by the southeast trade winds for about nine months of the year and with moderate rainfall. Cyclones may occur in the early months of the year.

North Keeling Island is an atoll consisting of just one C-shaped island, a nearly closed atoll ring with a small opening into the lagoon, about 50 m (165 ft) wide, on the East side. The island measures 1.1 km² (272 acres) in land area and is uninhabited. The lagoon is about 0.5 km² (124 acres). North Keeling Island and the surrounding sea to 1.5 km from shore form the Pulu Keeling National Park, established on 12 December 1995. It is home to the only surviving population of the endemic, and endangered, Cocos Buff-banded Rail.

South Keeling Islands is an atoll consisting of twenty-six individual islets forming an incomplete atoll ring, with a total land area of 13.1 km² (5.1 sq mi). Only Home Island and West Island are populated. People from Home Island maintain weekend shacks on the lagoon shore of South Island and on some of the smaller islands.

Take in the breathtakingly beautiful sunsets or admire the kaleidoscope colours of the lagoon and fringing reef. Imagine yourself swimming with the dolphins or snorkelling with the manta rays. Catch your own "catch of the day" whilst lazily cruising around in the glass bottom boat or perhaps take a trip to one of the many isolated islands in the southern atoll when the tides are high.

Explore West Island by bike or walk along the beautiful beaches just soaking up the spectacular views of the Indian Ocean. For a cultural experience take the ferry to Home Island and enjoy the hospitality and unique way of life of the Cocos Malay kampong or join in with the local West Island community activities.

This tiny horseshoe shaped jewel of the Indian Ocean is located 2750klm north-west of Perth and 900klm west south-west of Christmas Island, its closest neighbour and another island of the Australian Indian Ocean Territories.

The Maldives

The Republic of Maldives is an island nation that consists of 26 main atolls encompassing some 1,200 islets, 200 of which are inhabited. They are scattered in the Indian Ocean 700 km (435 mi) to the south-west of Sri Lanka.

With a maximum natural heigh of 2.6 m (7.5 ft), the Maldives are threatened by global warming, as a comparatively modest rise in sea level would make them uninhabitable. Havoc caused by the tsunami in 2004 serves as a stark reminder of the sea's destructive power.


The functional literacy rate is 98 percent. Educational standards are among the highest in the region, and most schools teach via the English Medium and follow the British education system, while in some schools Dhivehi (the Maldivian Language) or Arabic is the medium of instruction.





The inhabitants were Buddhist, probably since Ashoka's period, in the 3rd century BC and possibly Hindu before that. Islam was introduced in 1153. The Maldives then came under the influence of the Portuguese (1558) and the Dutch (1654) seaborne empires. In 1887 it became a British protectorate. In 1965, the Maldives obtained independence from Britain (originally under the name "Maldive Islands"), and in 1968 the Sultanate was replaced by a Republic.


Tourism is the major money-spinner. Visitors are wooed with the slogan "the last paradise on earth" and they do indeed enjoy relaxed resort holidays in an idyllic setting, with a pleasant climate that encourages water sports such as fishing, swimming, snorkelling, scuba diving, water skiing and windsurfing.

Telecommunication has developed very fast in this decade. Upto-date technology and international satellite links allow Maldives to have a sophisticated communications system. IDD facilities are available on all resorts, and card phone facilities are available on all islands.

Dhiraagu, the Maldives telecommunications company, an affiliate of the British Cable and Wireless Company, provides mobile telephones for rental on a daily basis. Dhiraagu is also the Internet service provider.

A typical resort in the Maldives will consist of an island occupied only by the workforce and visitors, with no local inhabitants, which will be up to 1,000 m (3,300 ft) by 250 m (800 ft) in size. There will be swaying palm trees and a beautiful beach encircling the island, protected by a house reef that encloses a safe lagoon. They come in three varieties - luxury for honeymooners and the jet set, family resorts and dive resort.


The Maldives is the smallest Asian country in terms of both population and area; it is the smallest predominantly Muslim nation in the world. It is also the country with the lowest highest point in the world. This makes it a nation seriously under threat of simply disappearing, due to rising ocean levels caused by climate change.


The capital is Male', an extraordinary city that occupies an entire island - a place of contrasts where high-rise buildings rub shoulders with the narrow streets, lanes and alleys of the old bazaar area. Health care facilities are improving on a daily basis.

The Indhira Gandhi Memorial Hospital in Male' is the biggest hospital in the country providing sophisticated medical care. ADK Hospital is the biggest private health care facility, and follows high medical standards. Experienced European doctors work at the AMDC Clinic. Regional hospitals are distributed throughout the country and Male' , the capital, has several well-established private general practitioners . Some resorts have an in-house doctor. Decompression chambers are within reach of most resorts in case of a diving emergency.

This crowded place houses a quarter of the country's population and is about as close as tourists get to the "real life" of the Maldives most of the other islands with local communities are off the tourist map. But if sun, sea and sand are your idea of bliss, the Maldives will delight.

Si Phan Don

Si Phan Don (Lao for "Four Thousand Islands") is a group of islands in the Mekong River in Southern Laos.

Deep down in the far south of Laos, the Mekong River fans out to a maximum width of 14 km (9 mi), within which area is the archipelago of rocks, sandbars, islets and islands known as Si Phan Don, or Four Thousand Islands.





Three of the islands not only have a permanent population but also a trickle of tourists. Though it remains a largely unspoilt and unchanged part of Laos, the border crossing with Cambodia will doubtless bring more and more visitors this way, and other islands will become available to stay on.

The Mekong is all-important of course, both as the main source of protein, fish, and because its siltrich waters fertilize the land. Don Khon is the largest and most developed of the three, with two main villages and several small settlements clinging to the riverbanks, all connected by a coastal road.

The interior of the island is agricultural, mainly rice paddies, but it is also home to several ancient Buddhist temples, dating back to around the 7th century. The most interesting of these is probably Wat Phou Khao Kaew, with its carved wooden Burmese sculptures and lovely, gently disintegrating brick stupa.


Don Khon and Don Det are joined by a bridge, and are small enough to explore on foot. The former has more genuine village life to enjoy while the latter is becoming a favourite haunt of the backpacking fraternity.

Scenically, these are all utterly delicious islands, picture postcard perfect. Sugar and coconut palm fronds shade the paths: once in a while you'll stumble upon a picturesque, down-at-heel, old French colonial villa, garlanded with plumeria trees and you might see a canoe carrying saffron-robed monks, umbrellas raised against the sun.

Swim in the river, splash in the waterfalls, stay in simple but charming guesthouses, and recharge your batteries before moving on.It's mostly people power. The islands are small enough that you can walk, although to get to some of the more far-flung destinations a bike will be nice. They can be rented everywhere. If you're feeling super-lazy, you might convince a local to take you on the back of their bike for a small fee. But seriously: you're on vacation, get a little exercise.

The Mekong below the falls has a small population of Irrawaddy Dolphins that are considered threatened.In recent years the region has become a tourist destination for backpackers. The three principle islands that have been developed to cater for tourists are Don Det, Don Kon and Don Kong. Most of the lodging available is comprised of simple, family run bungalows.

Travel agents will give you cash to pay for the boat ride from Ban Nakasang to Don Det. They might only give you as little as 5,000 Kip. The fare is at least 15,000 (depending on the number on people going) .

Sumatra

The island of Sumatra (also spelled Sumatera) is the sixth largest in the world and is the largest island entirely in Indonesia (two larger islands, Borneo and New Guinea, are partially in Indonesia), stretching almost 2,000 km (1,250 mi) from north to south. To the west, the Bukit Barisan Mountains run almost the entire lenght of the island, rising from a narrow coastal strip.

The highest of the 93 volcanic peaks, 15 of which are still active, is Mount Kerinci, at 3,850 m (12,556 ft). To the east, mountains slope down to swamps and marshes, cut by seething, silt-laden rivers.



Islam reached Sumatra in the 14th century, by which time several fabulous empires had come and gone, and Europeans were ogling the island's natural wealth. Several powers vied for it, with the Dutch emerging victorious in 1824.

Sumatrans, however, were not subdued, and they continued fighting until independence in 1949. The Acehnese people still cause headaches for the current Indinesian government.

This is a wild and glorious island. Mainly covered with dense jungle, it contains some of the world's greatest biodiversity. Endemic species such as the Sumatran tiger and the two-horned rhino still survive here, as do orang-utans.

Here, too, are both the world's largest and tallest flowers. The island encompasses many different ethnic groups, languages and cultures such as the matrilineal Minangkabau of West Sumatra, the Christian Bataks around gorgeous Lake Toba, and the firecely Muslim Acehnese.

On December 26, 2004, the western coast and islands of Sumatra, particularly Aceh province, were devastated by a nearly 15 meter high tsunami following the 9.2-magnitude Indian Ocean earthquake. The death toll surpassed 170,000 in Indonesia alone, primarily in Aceh.

In 2005 there was an 8.7 magnitude aftershock of the previous earthquake in December 2004. See 2005 Sumatran Earthquake. In addition to the subduction megathrust earthquake off the west coast, Sunda arc, the Great Sumatran Fault, a transform fault, runs the entire length of the island. The pressure on this fault increased dramatically after the December 2004 earthquake, and seismologists are afraid an earthquake is going to occur soon. The fault ends directly below the devastated city of Banda Aceh.

Sumatra is an adventure. Now largely forgotten by tourists, it can be hard work - the roads are dreadful and the transport worse - but the landscape is fabulous and the traditional architecture, such as the Minankabau longhouses with their buffalo-horn style roofs, breathtaking.

A string of natural disasters has hit Sumatra in the recent past, drastically curtailing tourism, but if you want to explore off the beaten track, amidst fabulous natural wonders, meeting people who will welcome your arrival with open arms, Sumatra is the place fo you.

Koh Rong

Koh Rong Samlon is an island off the coast of Sihanoukville, Cambodia. It includes a large heart-shaped bay with shellfish cultivation and beaches on the north coast towards Koh Rong.



The Kampong Som Islands are another small group lying off Sihanoukville on the Cambodian coast, and Koh Rong, 44 km (27.5 mi) out to sea, is not only the largest of these, but also the second largest of Cambodia's islands.

It does see a handful of visitors, mainly day-trippers from the mainland, but occasionally somebody stays and camps on one of the pristine beaches. This happy state of affairs is going to change over the next few years, as plans are afoot to turn both Koh Rong and its neighbouring island into major resorts.

In the meantime, this is pure Robinson Crusoe territory. Shaped like a dumbbell, the narrow 'waist' is flat, but both ends are mountainous and covered in thick, impenetrable jungle. On the southwest of the island is one of the world's most staggeringly beautiful beaches. Some 8 km (5 mi) of almost painfully bright white sand curves gently into the distance, sand so fine that it lies in drifts and crunches underfoot , and fresh water streams down from the steeply forested hills.

At one end is a fishing village, where basic supplies can be bought and a small, wooden temple stands on the southwestern point. The first set of beach bungalows for visitors are going up near here.

The abundance of fresh water feeds several mangrove forests around the coastline, but take a boat and you will find other empty coves and beaches to explore. Apart from the fantastic swimming and snorkelling, there are a couple of dive sites nearby - trips to these can be arranged on the mainland.

If you are camping, come with friends if you like being sociable. Alternatively you can lie on the sand, looking up at the spectacular night sky, and muse on our wonderful world.

Ko Tarutao

Ko Tarutao is the largest of the 51 mainly uninhabited islands of Ko Tarutao National Marine Park. One of the least visited or developed of Thailand's islands, it is also one of the most glorious, if tranquillity and utter simplicity are what you are after. You won't find beach bars and boom-boxes here.



Rising just north of the marine border with Malaysia, Ko Tarutao, which means old, mysterious and primitive in the Malay language, is about 24 km (15 mi) long and 11 km (7 mi) wide. Mountainous and covered in primary, semi-evergreen rainforest, its highest point reaches 708 m (2,300 ft).

While the west coast has pristine beaches stretching along almost its entire lenght, the rest of the coastline consists of mangrove swamps, and the limestone rock that forms the north and south east of the island is riddled with caves gouged out over millennia by the tumultuous force of the sea.

The park's headquarters are at Ao Pante, in the north west of the island, and it is here that you land. This is the main hive of activity, with a few bungalows run by the park authorities, a small shop, library and restaurant, as well as a visitor centre. There are three or four other beaches on the island where you can stay, and camping on the beach is also possible, for a small fee.

A 12 km (7.5 mi) road connects Ao Pante to Ao Taloh Wow in the east, built by prisoners during the 1930s and 40s. This and other trails weave through the forest, a marvellous experience enabling you to see quantities of birds, including three types of hornbill. Wildlife thrives here, and in the surrounding seas there are dugong, dolphins and sea turtles as well as about 25 per cent of the world's fish species.

Ko Samui

Ko Samui, in the Gulf of Thailand, lies some 80 km (50 mi) from the mainland town of Surat Thani. This was the first of the Gulf's islands to receive tourists - backpackers began arriving here about 30 years ago, moving on to Ko Pha Ngan and Ko Tao as the island became more developed.




The building of an airport placed Samui firmly into the package holiday niche, leaving Pha Ngan to the partygoers and Tao to the divers. Apart from tourism, the island is a huge coconut producer, harvesting some three million nuts per month, and palm trees and golden, sandy beaches are the hallmark of the place.

At 15 km (9 mi) long and about the same in width, it's impossible not to notice that some of the development back from the beach is pretty nasty. Fortunately new construction cannot be higher than a coconut tree, although large hotel groups seem to get away with it.


Samui tries to cater for everyone, and the individual beaches that lie off the main coastal road do have their different atmospheres. Chaweng and Lamai are the most developed - some would say ruined. Maenam and Bophut are quieter while Choeng Mon, in the north east, is really the classiest, with a few smart hotels round a pretty, tranquil bay.



This is a classic Thai holiday island. People come to swim, snorkel, and wander along the beaches in the daytime, stopping for a bite to eat, a massage, or to have beads braided into their hair.

At night there are endless restaurants, bars and clubs to visit, some of which are home to Thai sex trade workers. Ko Samui really does go out of its way to provide tourists with whatever they fancy.

Mindanao Island

Mindanao is the second largest and easternmost island in the Philippines. It is also one of the three island groups in the country, along with Luzon and Visayas. Historically the island was also known as Gran Molucas or Great Mollucas.

Islands, islands everywhere - hundreds of them in the Mindanao Island group, of which the largest by far is "big dady" Mindanao at 97,500 sq km (37,500 sq mi). Once the seat of the Sultanate of Sulu, a Muslim state founded in the 15th century, Mindanao remains the centre of Islam in the Philippines, though it is now the island's minority religion.



Even so, the struggle to secure an independent Muslim state on the island has been taking place for centuries and continues to this day. The Autonomous Region in Muslim Mindanao (ARMM) is a special self-governing area where most of the Islamic population lives, consisting of the Sulu Archipelago and two provinces on the mainland.


Mindanao is at once the most southerly and easterly point in the Philippines. The island has a unique character that makes it seem very different from the rest of the Philippines, resulting from its Muslim heritage and the dramatic mix of ethnic group. It is also a land of stark contrast between the modern and the traditional.


The thriving industrial centre that is Davao City certainly belongs to the 21st century, as do the many intensive agri-businesses producing commodities like pineapples and meat.

But once away from centres of population in the largely unspoiled back country, adventurous visitors will find themselves in a nature-lovers' paradise and be fascinated by the timeless way of life.





Rich flora and fauna, outstanding natural attractions, stunning coastline and islands, different ethnic communities with colourful festivals - all combine to make Mindanao a destination that is attracting a rapidly increasing number of tourists.

There is more than enough of Mindanao to go round, but despite awareness of the importance of eco-tourism, some of the new facilities will seem intrusive to those who prefer things just the way they were.

Travel Guidebooks in Philippines

Koh Sdach

The simple delights of staying on an unspoilt island

Koh Sdach means King's island. Legend has it that a king and his army took refuge here after batting with foreign invaders. Finding no source of invaders. Finding no source of fresh water, the king summoned the powers of the gods and a spring magically appeared. It can still be seen, near the dock.

Koh Sdach is a small island that lies in the Gulf of Thailand. As yet virtually "undiscovered"- you;ll find barely a mention in most guidebooks - it is also little known by Cambodians, so those travellers who arrive here receive a genuine welcome.

Even this part of mainland Cambodia is undeveloped, as it is divided from the rest of the country by the impenetrable jungle of the Cardamom Mountains.


The island's only settlement is clustered around the rickety wooden dock at which the boat between Sihanoukville and Koh Kong, the entry to Thailand, drops off goods and passengers.

Prior to the Pol Pot regime, only seven families lived here, but the village grew after liberation in 1979, and now a mixture of Khmers, Vietnamese and a few Thais live here.

About 70 per cent of the working population are fishermen, but the island seems to be run by a Thai, who owns the two other existing industries here, an ice plant and a sawmill, as well as shops and a guesthouse.

The buildings are mainly wooden, some on stilts over the water, and there are shops, pool parlours and little restaurants that turn into video houses at night. Footpaths meander between coconut palms and banana plantations, and on the far side of the hill that overlooks the town, the beaches are sandy and deserted, backed by lush, flowering vegetation, and trees laden with colourful tropical fruits.

If you are happy to interact almost entirely with the local population, try to visit soon - the government plans to make a marine reserve and resort here and this is the sort of place that could easily be turned into Cambodia's answer to Thailand's Ko Samet.

Travel Guidebooks in Cambodia

Koh Kong

The most south-western province of Cambodia, Koh Kong has a long undeveloped coastline and a mountainous, forested and largely inaccessible interior which embraces part of the Cardamom Mountains.

Its tourist attractions include casinos and waterfalls, while an Export Processing Zone and new port facilities are being developed for trade.





Koh Kong is a confusing destination - it is the name of the province which encompasses both part of mainland Cambodia and many offshore islands, of the provincial capital, also known as Dong Tong or even Krong Koh Kong and also of the country's largest island, from which the province took its name.


Just 80 km (50 mi) south of Thailand's Ko Chang, this once wild region is seeing many more visitors, now that the border crossing with Thailand is open.

Arriving from Thailand, a boat trip across the river to the town of Koh Kong had many people thinking they were on an island already - the new connecting bridge may prevent this misapprehension. Koh Kong island itself, a boat ride away, is 22 km (14 mi) long and 7 km (4 mi) wide, and as yet remains undeveloped.

Unsurprisingly, the Cambodian government plans to make it an international tourist resort, but at present it is a peaceful paradise of empty beaches, coconut palms, forested hills and waterfalls that vary between 6 m (20 ft) and 25 m (82.5 ft) high.

Dolphins regularly visit the island's six beaches, both morning and afternoon. If you come prepared, it is possible to camp here, and soon there will be bungalow operations and simple mod cons to make life easier.



Arrange a trip to the island from Koh Kong town, where you will probably be based. A reasonably large town with a population of 22,000, there are plenty of places to stay here, and some lovely country nearby.


This close to Thailand, the Thai Bath is common currency, and most people drink Thai beer rather than Cambodian. If you are travelling in either direction, try to allocate a few days here - one day you'll be able to say you knew Koh Kong Island in all its natural glory.



Highlights
Take a boat trip around the other islands. Take a boat trip up the Ta Tai River. See if you can spot a rare dugong, once reasonably abundant near Prek Ksach.

Travel Guidebooks in Canbodia