Monday, November 17, 2008

Si Phan Don

Si Phan Don (Lao for "Four Thousand Islands") is a group of islands in the Mekong River in Southern Laos.

Deep down in the far south of Laos, the Mekong River fans out to a maximum width of 14 km (9 mi), within which area is the archipelago of rocks, sandbars, islets and islands known as Si Phan Don, or Four Thousand Islands.





Three of the islands not only have a permanent population but also a trickle of tourists. Though it remains a largely unspoilt and unchanged part of Laos, the border crossing with Cambodia will doubtless bring more and more visitors this way, and other islands will become available to stay on.

The Mekong is all-important of course, both as the main source of protein, fish, and because its siltrich waters fertilize the land. Don Khon is the largest and most developed of the three, with two main villages and several small settlements clinging to the riverbanks, all connected by a coastal road.

The interior of the island is agricultural, mainly rice paddies, but it is also home to several ancient Buddhist temples, dating back to around the 7th century. The most interesting of these is probably Wat Phou Khao Kaew, with its carved wooden Burmese sculptures and lovely, gently disintegrating brick stupa.


Don Khon and Don Det are joined by a bridge, and are small enough to explore on foot. The former has more genuine village life to enjoy while the latter is becoming a favourite haunt of the backpacking fraternity.

Scenically, these are all utterly delicious islands, picture postcard perfect. Sugar and coconut palm fronds shade the paths: once in a while you'll stumble upon a picturesque, down-at-heel, old French colonial villa, garlanded with plumeria trees and you might see a canoe carrying saffron-robed monks, umbrellas raised against the sun.

Swim in the river, splash in the waterfalls, stay in simple but charming guesthouses, and recharge your batteries before moving on.It's mostly people power. The islands are small enough that you can walk, although to get to some of the more far-flung destinations a bike will be nice. They can be rented everywhere. If you're feeling super-lazy, you might convince a local to take you on the back of their bike for a small fee. But seriously: you're on vacation, get a little exercise.

The Mekong below the falls has a small population of Irrawaddy Dolphins that are considered threatened.In recent years the region has become a tourist destination for backpackers. The three principle islands that have been developed to cater for tourists are Don Det, Don Kon and Don Kong. Most of the lodging available is comprised of simple, family run bungalows.

Travel agents will give you cash to pay for the boat ride from Ban Nakasang to Don Det. They might only give you as little as 5,000 Kip. The fare is at least 15,000 (depending on the number on people going) .

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