Ko Tarutao is the largest of the 51 mainly uninhabited islands of Ko Tarutao National Marine Park. One of the least visited or developed of Thailand's islands, it is also one of the most glorious, if tranquillity and utter simplicity are what you are after. You won't find beach bars and boom-boxes here.
Rising just north of the marine border with Malaysia, Ko Tarutao, which means old, mysterious and primitive in the Malay language, is about 24 km (15 mi) long and 11 km (7 mi) wide. Mountainous and covered in primary, semi-evergreen rainforest, its highest point reaches 708 m (2,300 ft).
While the west coast has pristine beaches stretching along almost its entire lenght, the rest of the coastline consists of mangrove swamps, and the limestone rock that forms the north and south east of the island is riddled with caves gouged out over millennia by the tumultuous force of the sea.
The park's headquarters are at Ao Pante, in the north west of the island, and it is here that you land. This is the main hive of activity, with a few bungalows run by the park authorities, a small shop, library and restaurant, as well as a visitor centre. There are three or four other beaches on the island where you can stay, and camping on the beach is also possible, for a small fee.
A 12 km (7.5 mi) road connects Ao Pante to Ao Taloh Wow in the east, built by prisoners during the 1930s and 40s. This and other trails weave through the forest, a marvellous experience enabling you to see quantities of birds, including three types of hornbill. Wildlife thrives here, and in the surrounding seas there are dugong, dolphins and sea turtles as well as about 25 per cent of the world's fish species.
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