Thursday, November 27, 2008

Cocos Islands

Stick a pin in a globe through the Cocos (Keeling) Islaands, and it emerges almost exactly through the Cocos in Costa Rica. Discovered in 1609, they were settled and owned by a single family from 1827 until the Australian Government acquired them in 1978.

Lying 2,770 km (1,732 mi) northwest of Perth, the 27 coral islands are formed into two large, heavily vegetated atolls. Not only are they the only atolls that Darwin ever visited, but the coral ecosystem remains intact - and you can still see in their pristine condition exactly why they played such an important part in his theory of evolution.

North Keeling, set apart from the other islands, isn't even inhabited, but you can see extreme rarities like the Cocos buff-banded rail, robber land crabs, and both green and hawksbill turtles among other wonders, under its protection as Pulu Keeling National Park, covering both North Keeling and its surrounding waters.

The Cocos (Keeling) islanders live on Home and West Islands, both given over to copra and coconut plantations that only add to their tropical glamour. There is no tourist industry at all. Instead, there are facilities for visitors, sponsored by islanders who take an almost personal interest in everyone who comes. If you happen to be there, you're genuinely welcome to participate in the school fete, sports day, or concert night, and you'd be an idiot not to join in quiz night at the Cocos Club, or not to watch the annual Ardmona Cup Aussie Rules football match.

The tradition of hospitality is both Australian and Malay, representing the origins of the tight-knit community. The islanders, as much as the islands themselves, have retained a form of unpolluted innocence, and share a mutual respect that visitors immediately respond to. These islands are a dreamscape worthy of Gauguin.

The Cocos (Keeling) Islands consist of two flat, low-lying coral atolls with an area of 14.2 km² (5.4 sq. mi), 2.6 km (1.6 mi) of coastline, a highest elevation of 5 m (16 ft) and thickly covered with coconut palms and other vegetation. The climate is pleasant, moderated by the southeast trade winds for about nine months of the year and with moderate rainfall. Cyclones may occur in the early months of the year.

North Keeling Island is an atoll consisting of just one C-shaped island, a nearly closed atoll ring with a small opening into the lagoon, about 50 m (165 ft) wide, on the East side. The island measures 1.1 km² (272 acres) in land area and is uninhabited. The lagoon is about 0.5 km² (124 acres). North Keeling Island and the surrounding sea to 1.5 km from shore form the Pulu Keeling National Park, established on 12 December 1995. It is home to the only surviving population of the endemic, and endangered, Cocos Buff-banded Rail.

South Keeling Islands is an atoll consisting of twenty-six individual islets forming an incomplete atoll ring, with a total land area of 13.1 km² (5.1 sq mi). Only Home Island and West Island are populated. People from Home Island maintain weekend shacks on the lagoon shore of South Island and on some of the smaller islands.

Take in the breathtakingly beautiful sunsets or admire the kaleidoscope colours of the lagoon and fringing reef. Imagine yourself swimming with the dolphins or snorkelling with the manta rays. Catch your own "catch of the day" whilst lazily cruising around in the glass bottom boat or perhaps take a trip to one of the many isolated islands in the southern atoll when the tides are high.

Explore West Island by bike or walk along the beautiful beaches just soaking up the spectacular views of the Indian Ocean. For a cultural experience take the ferry to Home Island and enjoy the hospitality and unique way of life of the Cocos Malay kampong or join in with the local West Island community activities.

This tiny horseshoe shaped jewel of the Indian Ocean is located 2750klm north-west of Perth and 900klm west south-west of Christmas Island, its closest neighbour and another island of the Australian Indian Ocean Territories.

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